How to install a jacuzzi bath

The perfect way to relax and unwind, jacuzzi baths are now a viable option to many and can be installed in virtually any bathroom. Spa therapy, provided through the massaging action of water jets and air bubbles, is recommended for anyone who suffers from back issues. Often featuring with other therapeutic options such as aromatherapy, chromotherapy or music therapy, a jacuzzi bath, offers serious comfort and all the benefits of water therapy in your own bathroom.

1. Prepare your bathroom for installation

2. Fit and adjust the jacuzzi bath

3. Wire the bathtub

4. Connecting the waste

5. Connect the water supply

6. Test the jacuzzi bath

7. Finish up and drain the bathtub

Installing a jacuzzi bath, also known as a whirlpool or spa bath, involves the same preparatory stages as installing a traditional bath:

• Your bathroom must be clean and clear of all obstacles.

• The walls surrounding the bathtub must be tanked or feature an appropriate waterproof wall covering such as tiles, epoxy and so on. Please note that this requirement does not apply to freestanding baths.

• Your hot and cold water feeds must be located within reach of the bathtub.

• A waste pipe must also be in position.

• The bathtub must have its own circuit and it will require its own RCD or RCCB outside of the bathroom.

• The water and electricity supply should be turned off at the mains. Turn on a tap to ensure that the water supply has been switched off. You can check the power is off by using a voltage tester or multimeter (on voltage measure mode).

Adjusting the bath feet

• Read the installation instructions carefully to find out how to adjust the bath feet. Adjust the first foot of the bath in one corner to ensure there is an adequate gap beneath the bath panel to allow for motor ventilation (1 cm minimum depending on the model). You can then adjust the other feet approximately. The bath feet are usually adjusted and locked using one or several nuts (see image 2).

• Remove the bath panel and set the bath into your chosen position.

• Place a spirit level flat on the bathtub and adjust the feet one by one until they are level, using the first foot that you adjusted for ventilation as a reference point. The bath must be perfectly level both widthways and lengthways.

Installing battens and applying foam tape

If your bath is to be installed against one or several walls, move it aside carefully. In order to reduce vibrations, you will need to apply some Compriband foam tape all around the edges. Do the same for the supporting battens if required.

If you install the bathtub without vibration dampening insulation, vibrations will be transferred to the walls of the home. To prevent this from happening, lay a thick bead of silicone around the bath or use insulating foam tape.

The bathtub can be installed using either:

• battens: in which case, mark out the future location of the battens on the wall using pencil before fitting. Take care to take into account the thickness of the bath rim (see image 1). The batten(s) should be secured to the walls using suitable wall plugs and covered with foam tape or silicone. The bath will sit atop the silicone or foam tape on the battens to reduce vibrations;

• using the fixings provided: in which case, you will also have to mark out the height and length of the bathtub on the wall, subtracting the rim of the bath tub from the measurements. Wall plugs should once again be chosen to match the surface and the fixings secured in the correct location as indicated by the manufacturer's instructions. Study the installation diagram of your bathtub for more information.

Bathtub feet can also be secured using plugs if required.

• Any electrical works carried out in the bathroom are covered by Part P of the Building Regulations Document in England and Wales. This means that extra regulations apply and the work cannot be carried out by just any DIYer. -

• It is strongly recommended that you get a qualified electrician to wire the whirlpool bath for you. The electrician you use must be registered by a competent person scheme.

• If you plan to carry out the work yourself, you will need to submit plans to the Local Authority Building Control (LABC) and pay a fee.

No matter your level of electrical experience, it is always preferable to hire a qualified electrical engineer to work in the bathroom. By law, all homeowners and landlords must be able to prove that all electrical installation work meets Part P of Building Regulations. Failure to do so is a criminal offence and could cause serious problems down the line. In addition to risking serious or even deadly accidents, you will encounter issues with insurance or if you ever want to sell your house in future. All electrical work must meet standard BS 7671. A hired professional will work to the national standard and provide you with a safety certificate. They will also inform the relevant authorities so all you have to do is ensure you hire an electrician registered by a competent person scheme.

• The bath waste must be assembled according to the product instructions. Bath wastes are straightforward to put together. Simply screw the upper part of the waste into the bottom of the bath followed by the trap beneath the bath. If you have a bottle trap simply connect it directly to the waste pipe.

• The overflow will also need to be connected to the bathtub and waste. Bath waste pipes are usually made of ABS or PVC and measure 40mm. The connection to the waste pipe can consist of a rigid or flexible plastic pipe. If the size of this pipe is compatible with the waste pipe in your bathroom, connect using a straight connector. Otherwise, use a reducer to connect the two different pipe sizes.

• This connector or reducer should be glued directly onto the waste pipe using PVC pipe weld.

• The waste, on the other hand, will need to be removable. It must therefore not be glued but silicone sealant should be used.

• Once the adhesive has dried, check for leaks by pouring a bucket of water into the bathtub. If the connections are all watertight, put your bathtub into position once again and secure it using silicone adhesive or the fixings supplied by the manufacturer.

• Jacuzzi baths may come supplied with contemporary waterfall taps, traditional mixer taps, one or two shower heads, or no taps at all in which case you will only have to fit the waste pipe to the bath and ensure your bathtub is correctly positioned for the freestanding or wall mounted taps.

• Bath taps are connected to the water supply using flexi hoses. Check that the washers are fitted in the hoses before screwing into place (see image 5).

Ensure the electrician tests the bath after turning the water and power back on:

• The power should always be turned on by an electrician while the bathtub is empty to ensure your safety in case of any problems.

• Turn the water back on at the mains.

• Fill the bathtub with cold water.

• Check that there are no leaks beneath the bathtub.

• Refer to the product manual to find out how to turn on the whirlpool bath and test out the various modes and features.

• Check beneath the bathtub for leaks once again as you run through the various air bubble and water jet settings. Leave the bath running for a few minutes. Do not empty the bath.

The final stages should be carried out while the bath is filled with water:

• Start by installing the bath panels.

• Apply silicone around the edge of the bath anywhere where it meets the wall.

• Once the silicone is dry and no leaks have been detected, drain the bathtub.

Disinfecting

• Fill the bath with water and add 200 ml of bleach unless the product manual warns against the use of bleach.

• Leave the bath to run for two cycles on the most energetic setting.

• Drain the bathtub and rinse once the program is finished.

Your jacuzzi bath should be disinfected every two months or so.

Removing limescale

• Fill the bath with hot water then pour in half a litre of vinegar.

• Select the most intensive hydro massage setting.

• Leave the bath to run for two cycles (three if there is a lot of limescale).

• Drain then rinse the bath once the program is finished.

Treat the bath for limescale every four to six months depending on usage and the hardness of your water.

Cleaning the bath

• Use mild, non abrasive cleaners like washing up liquid or cleaners designed specifically for bathtubs.

• Never use abrasive cleaners or organic compounds like solvents, strippers, acetone, turpentine, etc.

Required skills

You will need basic plumbing skills to install a whirlpool bath. You have two options when it comes to wiring the bath: you can either hire a qualified electrician to do the work or you can notify your local building authority and pay a fee before you start work. We strongly recommend hiring a qualified electrical engineer to install and test the bath. Other skills required involve taking measurements, checking the bath is level, applying silicone, choosing the right wall plugs and using a drill to fit them. Depending on the layout of your bathroom, other skills may be required.

Time required

2 to 3 hours

Number of people required

1 or 2 people

Tools and equipment

• Bath waste with overflow, plug and trap

• A rigid or flexible plastic. 40 mm hose

• PVC connector or reducer and PVC pipe weld

• Flexi hoses

• A roll of Compriband tape (if bathtub is installed against one or more walls)

• A drill, drill bits and suitable wall plugs

• Battens (if required), tape measure, pencil and spirit level

• A set of slotted and/or Phillips screwdrivers and electrician's screwdriver

• Wire strippers and multimeter

• A set of open-ended spanners

• Sealant gun and silicone for bathroom use

Safety and workwear

• Safety shoes

• Protective gloves

• Safety goggles

• Ear defenders

• Workwear

Please note: this is a non-exhaustive list; be sure to match your personal protective equipment to the job at hand.

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