Guide written by:
Jeremy, Construction site supervisor, Cardiff
Shower cabins offer the simplest solution when it comes to installing a shower. No matter which size or model you go for, these enclosures require next to no work to install. You won't need to tile the walls surrounding the shower and you shouldn't even have to modify the floor or plumbing system in any way. Shower cabins are single-piece watertight enclosures which come in a range of finishes and price ranges.
Easy to set up and just as comfortable to use as a traditional enclosure, shower cabins can be a great option for both new builds and bathroom renovations.
Prepare the shower tray
Set up the back wall of the shower cabin
Connect the shower to the water supply
Assemble the shower cabin walls
Check the shower is watertight and fully operational
Before you set about installing the shower cabin, be sure to:
Turn off the main water supply.
The shower tray needs to be fitted to a flat and clean surface and the waste pipe must be in the correct place.
The hot and cold water supply lines must be fitted where your mixing valve will be installed or close enough so that they can be connected easily using flexible hoses.
Place the shower tray on the ground in your chosen position.
Use a spirit level to ensure that the tray is level on at least two sides.
Change the level of the tray as required using the adjustable feet.
Put the tray back in place and check that your adjustments have worked to make the shower tray perfectly level.
Next, you'll need to connect the shower waste to the waste pipe. Install the waste in the tray according to the product instructions.
Shower trays are often connected to the waste pipe via a 40mm flex outlet:
If the waste pipe matches the diameter of the hose, glue on a straight connector using PVC adhesive. You can then fit the waste to the other end of the connector and seal using silicone. Remember that you need to be able to remove the waste when required so do not use glue here.
If the waste does not match the diameter of the flex outlet, use a reducer coupling. Reducers are used to connect components with different diameters. Simply glue the reducer to the flex outlet using PVC adhesive. Connect the waste to the flex outlet and seal using silicone.
These parts are all generally standard but assembly methods can vary depending on the model. For more information on how to assemble these components read the instruction manual carefully.
The back wall of the shower cabin is where the mixing valve, shower riser rail and shower head will be installed.
Place the panel against the wall ensuring it is propped up securely.
Assemble all tap components following the manufacturer's instructions.
The mixing valve will be screwed through the back wall in most cases. Be careful not to over tighten at the risk of splitting or even breaking the shower wall.
Depending on the shower cabin, you may be able to screw the shower hose directly onto the mixing valve or you may have to use an additional connector. If you have to fit a connector, do so after assembling the mixing valve and take care not to over tighten.
Connect the shower hose to the shower head. Please note: do not use a spanner for this step – simply tighten by hand making sure that each end of the hose is fitted with washers.
Finish off by fitting the shower head holder. Once again, do not over tighten the connections. All components should contain washers – do not forget to insert them.
Prepare the supply hoses by applying PTFE tape in the direction of the threads. Do the same for the side connected to the mixing valve.
Connect the hoses to the mixing valve making sure to check the washers are in place. Screw into place by hand and finish off using a spanner.
You can then connect the hoses to the water supply lines. The hot water should be on the left. Once again, start screwing by hand and finish off with a spanner.
If you're not absolutely sure, you can test for leaks. Turn the water back on and check that there is no water leaking around the connections.
The walls of the shower enclosure must be clean and free from any grease residue.
Apply the watertight seal along the edges of the panels. This part should be supplied with the kit and is designed to stick directly to the shower wall profiles and the back side of the walls.
Fit the second shower wall ensuring that it is lined up correctly.
Screw the walls together using the bolts provided.
Prepare to install the door by fitting the angle profiles if they are not already in place.
Stick the watertight seal along the inside of the door.
To install the door, simply slot the angle profiles onto the walls that you have just installed. You can then screw everything into place. Finish by installing the door handles.
Use a spirit level to check that the door is perfectly level. Check that all the angle profiles are plumb.
Test the door to make sure it works as expected.
If everything is level, fit the shower cabin onto the tray using the brackets provided.
Depending on the model, you may have to apply silicone around the joints between the shower tray and walls.
Turn the water supply back and check that the shower cabin is watertight.
Check the temperature settings and flow rate of the mixing valve.
Check that the water drains from the tray correctly and that there are no leaks.
Installing a shower cabin involves handling large and sometimes heavy components. It is therefore recommended to get someone to help you assemble and install the shower cabin.
When it comes to plumbing in the shower cabin, the components provided are often standard. You do, however, need to know how to assemble the various connectors and washers, and install reducers if required. You also need to know how to apply PTFE tape to create a watertight seal and be able to use a spirit level to assemble and adjust the shower walls. To finish off, you'll need to be able to handle a caulking gun to lay your silicone bead.
2 to 3 hours depending on the model
2 people
Tape measure and pencil
A spirit level
A set of open-ended spanners
A drill, drill bits and screwdriver bits
A sealant gun and silicone sealant
PVC adhesive and PTFE tape
Protective clothing
Please note: this is a non-exhaustive list; be sure to match your personal protective equipment to the job at hand.
Guide written by:
Jeremy, Construction site supervisor, Cardiff
Electrician by trade, I first worked in industrial estates where I installed, wired and fixed a large number of electrical installations. After this, I managed a team of electricians for this type of work. 10 years or so ago, I turned to building and construction. From the modest family home, to gyms and theatres, I have been able to coordinate, audit and organise all sorts of construction sites. For 4 years now, I am restoring and building an extension to a bungalow in the heart of the Welsh countryside. My experience in manual work and my knowledge means I am proud to be of service. Terraces, interior design, roofing, plumbing, electrics, anything goes! My wife, daughter and I, built almost everything we have from scratch! So to answer all of your questions and advise you on choosing your tools? Easy!