Guide written by:
Anne, Painter, Cambridge
Like all outdoor wood, shutters need to be painted regularly using varnish or a special type of paint designed to stand up to all types of weathering including rain, UV rays, frost and wind. If you have metal shutters, you might find that they corrode over time meaning you will need to apply a metal paint or a rust treatment. Wooden shutters, on the other hand, will darken or yellow over time. They may even start to rot if they haven't been protected with a microporous wood paint or a waterproof, UV-resistant and anti-fungal varnish.
Nowadays, shutters come in all materials including aluminium, iron, PVC and composite materials. However, this guide will stick mainly to how to paint wooden shutters as they require more frequent care. That said, a lot of the advice and prep work set out below will also apply to repainting metal or PVC shutters.
Choosing a paint for your shutters
Removing and examining the shutters
Cleaning and preparing your shutters
Applying the paint and replacing the shutters
Three main types of paint are used to cover wooden shutters:
Oil-based exterior wood paint: good coverage, opaque and goes a long way, but takes a long time to dry.
Acrylic exterior wood paint: releases fewer Organic Volatile Compounds (VOCs) but only has average coverage and requires more coats.
Renovation paint: very good adherence, good coverage and quick to dry.
Applied over bare wood or existing varnish, varnish is microporous, fungicidal and resistant to water, UV rays and other elements. Varnish comes in all different colours and you can choose between liquid or gel for minimal dripping. The bonus of varnish is that it is not opaque meaning you will be able to see the grain of the wood.
Oil-based metal paint: this type of paint offers corrosion protection for iron and ferrous metals in urban, rural or even maritime environments. However, it's important to prepare the surface first.
'Direct to rust' metal paints: can be applied directly to rust in all types of outdoor environments; an oil-based paint strengthened by urethane.
Acrylic metal paint: weather-resistant, suitable for all ferrous metal surfaces in good condition, good coverage.
Aluminium paint: can be oil-based or acrylic; to be applied after sanding in two coats.
PVC acrylicpaint: an emulsion that should be applied in two coats on a clean and smooth surface; releases fewer VOCs than oil-based paints.
Oil-based PVC paint: a paint or undercoat (when diluted with white spirit) to be applied under a wide choice of top coats.
Generally speaking, you won't need permission to paint the exterior of your home. However, there are may be additional rules if your property is listed or on designated land. Before you start work, it's best to check any local regulations.
Before attempting to repaint a shutter, it's best to remove them from the hinges. Take the opportunity to check that they are not cracked or broken. If the wood is cracked, you can fill in the gaps using a spatula and some wood putty. If they are missing a piece such as a corner or have deep crevices, use wood mastic. A two-part product made up of a paste and a hardening agent, wood mastic is stronger than classic wood putty. Leave the product to dry according to the manufacturer's instructions then reapply another coat if required. Once the product is dry, sand lightly to smooth down the surface.
If your shutters are not in good shape and the paint or varnish is chipped, sand down the entire surface before you start. Alternatively, you may need to strip the surface to remove old layers of paint or varnish. Apply the stripper with a paint brush and leave it to work for the time indicated on the bottle before scraping off the old coating with a scraping tool. Please note: if the paint is very old, stripper may not be enough.
Clean the shutters thoroughly using acetone to remove grease and tiny dust particles. You can also use caustic soda but beware that you will have to rinse the surface several times once you're done. Once your shutters are clean, you can proceed to painting. If you don't know what type of paint has been used before (or if an oil-based paint has been used), apply an oil-based paint or two coats of renovation paint. You can also apply an undercoat followed by an exterior wood paint.
If your shutters have been painted with a water-based paint, a light sand will do. You can then apply any type of exterior wood paint over the top. If the wood is bare, take the time to apply an undercoat specially designed for exterior wood followed by two coats of the wood paint of your choice.
If you have PVC shutters, lightly sand them before applying a couple of coats of special PVC paint. If you have metal shutters, lightly sand them to ensure your paint adheres properly, clean thoroughly then apply an undercoat with corrosion protection and two coats of outdoor metal paint.
Once your shutters are prepared and you've chosen the right types of product, it's time to set up your work space. Be careful not to paint while it is too warm outside as the paint will dry too quickly and damage the finish.
Place the shutter flat across two trestles or a table.
Apply masking tap along the hinges or any parts you don't want to paint.
Mix your paint properly using a paddle mixer.
Use a small roller to paint the large areas and a small rounded brush to paint corners, edges and inside grooves.
Avoid trying to make the paint go too far or it will lose coverage and provide less protection to the wood.
Apply paint to one side of the shutter.
Once it is dry, turn it over and apply paint to the other side.
You will usually have to apply at least two coats. You can make the most of your time while the first coat dries to paint the hinges using a metal paint.
Ensure that the paint is fully cured before replacing your shutters.
Just about anyone should be able to paint their shutters. However, you will have to be able to remove the shutters from the hinges and you may have to apply masking tape.
2 to 3 days including drying time
1 person
Pry bar or screwdriver (to unhinge the shutters)
Paint roller with a short pile for a smooth finish
Rounded paint brush for getting into the grooves
Fine to medium grit sandpaper
Acetone
Please note: this is a non-exhaustive list; Be sure to match your personal protective equipment to the job at hand.
Guide written by:
Anne, Painter, Cambridge
After 8 years of trade, I turned professional: I trained myself to be a painter and carpet fitter, either on my own or with 16 year old comrades. 9 months later, following vocational training, I created my company. I’m a self-taught DIYer and decoration enthusiast, I love to find and restore furniture and to create unique decoration pieces. I completed the renovation of my sister’s house with my niece: electrics, tiling, plasterboard...we did it all. And today, if I can share my experience I'm happy to do it. Good Luck.